Floor-standing laser chassis with an 80W C02 tube, industrial chiller, air compressor, and exterior-mounted fume extractor.
- 80W laser tube.
- Large working area: 20’’ x 28’’.
- Machine dimensions: 45" x 33.8" x 38".
- Engraving Speed: 0-500 mm/s. Cutting Speed: 0-80 mm/s.
- Red dot laser pointer guide
- Adjustable Z height
Laser engravers/cutters are cool tools. They can also be extremely dangerous. There are certain things you should NEVER do with a laser engraver/cutter. If you do these things, you will at a minimum be restricted from using our laser.
Cutting hazardous/unapproved materials.
Leaving the laser unattended.
- You MUST consult the Approved Materials List (and the Never Use List) - see below - before cutting.
- You must monitor the laser at all times for the duration that you are using it. Someone needs to be able to safely shut down the machine and mitigate a potential hazard if unexpected behavior occurs.
Opening the laser door while the tool is in operation.
- This is an incredibly bad thing to do, as this laser has the potential to cause permanent blindness, amongst other things. There is no reason to do this while the machine is in operation.
Staring at the beam without eye protection.
- You should always be wearing some basic form of eye protection (safety glasses) when operating this machine.
- Turn on the chiller using the switch on the chiller unit. This device is connected to an AC relay which will also turn on the air compressor and fume extractor.
- Verify that the chiller is pumping water through the laser tube, and that water temperature rests comfortably between 15-30C, generally around 20C.
- Turn on the laser controller by turning the ESTOP switch to the right.
- From the CAD computer, load your file.
- Appropriately adjust the origins, etc of the laser relative to your job.
- Appropriately adjust power and speed. DO NOT EXCEED 70% POWER.
- Verify that the ignition key (with the blue keyfob) is turned to the right. The laser will not fire if it is not.
- Start your job and WATCH THE LASER AND REMAIN PHYSICALLY IN FRONT OF IT THE ENTIRE TIME IT IS FUNCTIONING.
- If the laser behaves unexpectedly or a hazardous incident occurs, press the ESTOP button immediately. Do not turn off the chiller or the fume extraction. If you are unsure what happened, contact an authorized trainer.
- When your job is complete, wait at least 60 seconds for excess fumes to be extracted, then open the laser door and remove your piece.
- Shut off the laser by pressing the ESTOP.
- Shut off all the other components by turning off the chiller.
Approved Laser Material List
||Avoid oily/resinous woods
||Be very careful about cutting oily woods, or very resinous woods as they also may catch fire.
||These contain glue, and may not laser cut as well as solid wood.
||These are okay to use but may experience a higher amount of charring when cut.
|Paper, card stock
||Cuts very well on the laser cutter, and also very quickly.
||Cuts well but may catch fire.
||Watch for fire.
||Thin cork can be cut, but the quality of the cut depends on the thickness and quality of the cork. Engineered cork has a lot of glue in it, and may not cut as well.
||Avoid cutting thicker cork (5mm). Engraves well, cuts poorly.
||Cuts extremely well leaving a beautifully polished edge.
|Thin Polycarbonate Sheeting (<1mm)
||Very thin polycarbonate can be cut, but tends to discolor badly. Extremely thin sheets (0.5mm and less) may cut with yellowed/discolored edges. Polycarbonate absorbs IR strongly, and is a poor material to use in the laser cutter.
||Watch for smoking/burning
||Delrin comes in a number of shore strengths (hardness) and the harder Delrin tends to work better. Great for gears!
|Kapton tape (Polyimide)
||Works well, in thin sheets and strips like tape.
||Works well if it's thin. Thick mylar has a tendency to warp, bubble, and curl
||Gold coated mylar will not work.
||Smokes a lot when cut, but can be cut.
||Keep it thin.
||Used a lot for hobby, RC aircraft, architectural models, and toys. 1/4" cuts nicely, with a smooth edge.
||Must be constantly monitored.
||Foam core gets burned and eaten away compared to the top and bottom hard paper shell.
||Not a fantastic thing to cut, but it can be cut if watched.
||They all cut well. Our lasers can be used in lace-making.
||Not plastic coated or impregnated cloth!
||Leather is very hard to cut, but can be if it's thinner than a belt (call it 1/8"). Our "Advanced" laser training class covers this.
||Real leather only! Not 'pleather' or other imitations .. they are made of PVC.
||Fine for cutting.
||Beware chlorine-containing rubber!
||Cuts OK in thin sheets. See https://www.ulsinc.com/materials/teflon ; the issues listed in https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polymer_fume_fever should not matter because our lasers are fully vented and exhausted.
|Carbon fiber mats/weave
that has not had epoxy applied
||Can be cut, very slowly.
||You must not cut carbon fiber that has been coated!!
|Coroplast ('corrugated plastic')
||Difficult because of the vertical strips. Three passes at 80% power, 7% speed, and it will be slightly connected still at the bottom from the vertical strips.
NEVER USE THESE IN THE LASER List
|PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride)/vinyl/pleather/artificial leather
||Emits chlorine gas when cut!
||Don't ever cut this material as it will ruin the optics, causes the metal of the machine to corrode as chlorine is released and ruins the motion control system.
|Thick ( >1mm ) Polycarbonate/Lexan
||Cuts very poorly, discolors, catches fire
||Polycarbonate is often found as flat, sheet material. The window of the laser cutter is made of Polycarbonate because polycarbonate strongly absorbs infrared radiation! This is the frequency of light the laser cutter uses to cut materials, so it is very ineffective at cutting polycarbonate. Polycarbonate is a poor choice for laser cutting. It creates long stringy clouds of soot that float up, ruin the optics and mess up the machine.
||Melts / Cyanide
||ABS does not cut well in a laser cutter. It tends to melt rather than vaporize, and has a higher chance of catching on fire and leaving behind melted gooey deposits on the vector cutting grid. It also does not engrave well (again, tends to melt). Cutting ABS plastic emits hydrogen cyanide, which is unsafe at any concentration.
|HDPE/milk bottle plastic
||Catches fire and melts
||It melts. It gets gooey. It catches fire. Don't use it.
||It catches fire quickly, burns rapidly, it melts, and only thin pieces cut. This is the #1 material that causes laser fires!!!
||Like PolyStyrene, it melts, catches fire, and the melted drops continue to burn and turn into rock-hard drips and pebbles.
||burn / smoke
||Epoxy is an aliphatic resin, strongly cross-linked carbon chains. A CO2 laser can't cut it, and the resulting burned mess creates toxic fumes ( like cyanide! ). Items coated in Epoxy, or cast Epoxy resins must not be used in the laser cutter. ( see Fiberglass )
||It's a mix of two materials that cant' be cut. Glass (etch, no cut) and epoxy resin (fumes)
|Coated Carbon Fiber
||Emits noxious fumes
||A mix of two materials. Thin carbon fiber mat can be cut, with some fraying - but not when coated.
|Any foodstuff ( such as meat, seaweed 'nori' sheets, cookie dough, bread, tortillas... )
||The laser is not designed to cut food, and people cut things that create poisonous/noxious substances such as wood smoke and acrylic smoke.
||If you want to cut foodstuffs, consider sponsoring a food-only laser cutter for the space that is kept as clean as a commercial kitchen would require.
|Material with Sticky Glue Backing
||Coats lens, cracks lens
||There are many normally laserable items such as thin wood laminates that you can purchase that become un-cuttable when the manufacturer adds a layer of peel-off glue on the bottom to attach them to surfaces. Examples include cork tiles, thin wood laminate, acrylic tiles, and paper stickers. Never cut these materials in the laser cutter if they have this backing. The glue will vaporize forming a coating on the lens that will coat it, cloud it, heat it, and then potentially crack the lens. The glue residue is worse than resin, and can't be removed without risking damage to the lens ... requiring a lens replacement.